Billy Boats

Routes

The inner Ionian loop, Atokos, Kastos, Kalamos, Meganisi, Skorpios

By Captain Bill

Meganisi by boat

The inner Ionian loop is the route we recommend when guests ask for a full day with multiple stops, calm water, and lunch on a real Greek island taverna. Five islands, roughly 45 nautical miles round trip, and almost all of it inside the shelter of the bigger surrounding land.

Why the inner Ionian stays calm

Lefkada sits at the top of a small archipelago. To the south and east you have Meganisi, then Kalamos and Kastos sitting like two sentries, with Atokos further south. To the west, the islands shield the inner waters from the open Ionian swell. The prevailing summer wind has nowhere to build, so you get glass-flat sea even on days when the west coast is rough. This is why we run this loop when the weather rules out Paxos or Porto Katsiki.

The route, hour by hour

09:00 leave Lefkada. The first hop south takes you past Nidri and out to Skorpios, the Onassis island, around 25 minutes away. Skorpios is private, you cannot land, but you can circle it slowly, look at the small chapel on the north tip, and swim in the clear water off the south. Twenty minutes here.

From Skorpios it is a short crossing to Meganisi, the largest of the inner islands. We aim for Spilia harbour on the north side, or Atherinos further east depending on wind. Mid-morning swim stop in one of the side coves, Pasoumaki or Elia are favourites. The water is the deep cyan that Meganisi is known for.

Around 12:30 we head south to Kalamos. The village sits halfway down the east coast, with a working harbour and three or four tavernas. This is lunch. The food is simple, grilled fish, horta, tomato salad, and the village is mostly quiet.

After lunch, a quick crossing to Kastos, the smaller, lower island just across the strait. Kastos has one village, two churches and a handful of cafes. Beach stop here is in Sarakiniko bay on the west side, small, white pebbles, very clear water.

Last leg: Atokos, the southernmost island in the loop, uninhabited. A swim off Cliff Beach on the south coast is the dramatic finale, the cliff rises 100 metres straight out of the sea behind the beach. Half an hour, then we point north and head back. Lefkada by 17:00.

When to choose this over Paxos

The full case for each is in our Lefkada to Paxos boat day trip guide. In short, the inner loop is the better day if:

  • the wind forecast is over 4 Beaufort in the afternoon
  • you have first-time boaters who want calmer water
  • you want a sit-down lunch on a real island, not a beach taverna
  • the group includes younger children

Paxos wins on water colour and on the scale of the day. The inner loop wins on calm, variety and tavernas.

A real day

A family of five from Athens last July chose the inner loop because the grandfather was reluctant about the open Paxos crossing. We did the full circuit, lunch at Kalamos, and ended at Atokos. The grandfather got off the boat saying he'd never seen water so clear. He has booked again for September.

FAQ

Can I visit Skorpios island? You can circle the island on a boat and swim in the bays off its south coast, but the island itself is private and you cannot step onto the land. See our full Skorpios island tour guide for the history.

Which island has the best taverna for lunch? Kalamos. Three or four tavernas on the small harbour, fresh fish, simple Greek cooking. The village stays quiet through August.

Is the inner Ionian suitable for first-time boaters? Yes, this is the route we suggest for families and for guests who get seasick easily. The water is protected and the crossings between islands are short.

How many hours on the boat? A full day, 09:00 to 17:00. Active boating time is about five hours; the rest is anchored at swim stops and lunch.

To book the inner Ionian loop, use the booking form.