Porto Katsiki and Egremni by boat, the case for arriving from the sea

The two most photographed beaches on Lefkada, Porto Katsiki and Egremni, are easier to reach by boat than by road. Both sit on the west coast, separated by about a kilometre of cliff, and both have lost most of their land access since the 2015 earthquake. Coming from the sea is no longer the alternative. It is the route.

Why most people choose the sea route

Porto Katsiki's car park sits high on the headland, with a long stair descent to the sand below. Egremni's original 350-step staircase collapsed in the 2015 earthquake and has only been partially rebuilt. By boat, both beaches are reached in about an hour from Lefkada town, with no queues, no driving, and no climbing back up at the end of a long day in the sun. You drop anchor in five metres of clear water, swim in, and stay as long as you want.

The route from Lefkada

The full west-coast run from Lefkada town to Porto Katsiki is roughly 18 nautical miles. Most days we leave at 09:00, head down past Lygia, Nikiana and Nidri, cross the south end of the island near Vasiliki, then turn north along the west coast. Egremni first, it is a kilometre of white sand, calmer water than Porto Katsiki, and far fewer people. Lunch, swim, then a short hop further north to Porto Katsiki, the famous half-moon of pebble and turquoise framed by white cliffs. You are back at base around 17:00.

What to expect at each stop

Egremni is wilder. The water is the cleanest you'll see on Lefkada. The sand is fine and pale, and the cliffs cast a long shadow by mid-afternoon. Bring towels and a parasol, there is no shade.

Porto Katsiki is more dramatic. The cliffs rise straight out of the sea on the right, and the beach itself is a sweep of pebbles with crystal water. There are a few small concession boats serving drinks, but you can also stay anchored offshore and swim in.

Wind and timing

Both beaches sit on the west coast, which catches the prevailing summer wind (the north-westerly maistros). On a strong wind day the swell can make beaching a tender awkward, and the captain may choose to drop the order, Porto Katsiki first while the morning sea is flat, Egremni after. Check the forecast the night before. The Hellenic National Meteorological Service publishes daily marine forecasts at hnms.gr.

A real day

Last August we ran a Greek family of six from Nidri pickup. They wanted Porto Katsiki for the photo, then a long lunch stop, then a swim at Egremni and home before the wind picked up. Total: 8 hours on the water, 40 nautical miles, two of the most photographed beaches in Europe. They left at 17:00 sunburnt and quiet.

If the west coast is too windy on your day, a day exploring Meganisi by boat on the inner Ionian loop stays calm in the same conditions. For a longer day with the brightest water in the region, the Lefkada to Paxos boat day trip is the alternative.

FAQ

Can I reach Porto Katsiki by car instead? You can drive to the headland car park and walk down the stairs, but the descent is steep and you have to climb back up at the end of a hot day. Most visitors who try once do the second beach by boat.

Is Egremni open after the earthquake? Yes. A short staircase has been rebuilt, but the original 350-step access is still gone. Boat is by far the easier route.

How long does the trip take? About an hour from Lefkada town to Egremni. A full day with both beaches and lunch runs 09:00 to 17:00.

Do I need a license to drive the boat myself? Greek law requires a powerboat license for motors above 30 HP. Our boats are 150 HP and up, so a license is required for self-drive. With a skipper, no license is needed.

Captain Bill runs the west coast route from May to October. Reach out via the booking form for dates.